Lately, I have often happened to visit Mergozzo.
I’ve been there twice in a short time, with two different families from the United States, both searching for their roots. Their ancestors left from here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to pursue a dream overseas. It’s moving to see how, after more than a century, the call of these waters and mountains is still so strong.
Mergozzo is one of those places that seem to escape time and frenzy. A cozy village on the shores of a small, clear lake, surrounded by mountains that are reflected in the water and protect the town as if in an embrace.
Strolling through its cobbled streets, you can breathe in an authentic atmosphere, made up of silence, the smell of freshly baked cakes and the discreet smiles of those who live here all year round.
Accompanying these American families in search of their ancestors was a journey within a journey. Before their arrival, I immersed myself in local research and stories so that I could guide them to the places that had marked the lives of their great-grandparents: houses, squares, and corners that still tell the epic story of Italian emigration.
For them, Mergozzo was not just a stopover: it was a homecoming, an embrace with a part of themselves that had remained on the other side of the world.
Lake Mergozzo is one of the cleanest in Italy, and on clear days the colors seem almost unreal: the intense green of the woods, the transparent blue of the water, the white of the still snow-capped mountains in the background.
Mass tourism does not reach this place: you can swim in silence, go canoeing, or stroll along the shore among willows and mulberry trees. Children play freely, adults enjoy an aperitif in the square, perhaps sampling the famous fugascina, the village’s typical dessert, or tasting local cold cuts and cheeses that tell the story and flavors of these valleys.
Mergozzo is also home to a very special artist: Giuseppe Lusetti, famous for creating the granite chain that won the Guinness World Record.
This extraordinary work, composed of hundreds of rings carved by hand from local granite, has become a symbol of ingenuity, passion, and a deep connection to the land. Although it is not visible to the public, the story of the chain and those who created it perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Mergozzo: quiet creativity that leaves a mark on the world.
In the village, you can still taste fugascina and the best cured meats and cheeses typical of the area, letting yourself be captivated by the stories told by the elderly, the village festivals, and the summer evenings with outdoor tables and music reflecting on the water.
Every time I accompany someone to Mergozzo, I realize that it is not only my guests who are moved: for me too, it is a return to my roots, a plunge into a lesser-known and authentic Italy, made up of details, encounters, and shared memories.
This is the true luxury of travel: feeling part of a story that spans time, between the tranquil waters of a small lake and the warmth of a welcoming village.
The true magic of the Vigezzina Centovalli Railway comes alive most dramatically between October and November, when the route transforms into the spectacular “Foliage Train”.
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Mergozzo is a cozy village on the shores of a small, clear lake, surrounded by mountains that are reflected in the water and protect the town as if in an embrace.
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